Some More Crusaders

I finished two more batches of Italeri Crusaders for Lion Rampant.

These are a lot better than my last ones; the earlier ones didn't turn out as I had hoped - something to do with the coat of primer.
Anyway, I experimented with some new techniques on these guys, including the Foundry 3-layer paint system. In this system (a deeper summary can be found here.) This paint system is actually designed for 28mm, but can be used occasionally with 1/72 figures, on areas such as a tunic, cape, or caparisons (horse blanket thingies.) Anyway, I was experimenting with it a little bit because I'm going to try my hand at some Reaper 28mm Fantasy minis soon, and want to practice a little first.

Back to the painting system itself. It involves three shades of the same color of paint: a shade color, a base color, and a highlight color. You paint the shade color all over the desired surface and then paint the base color on everything but the crevices and recesses. Then you paint the highlight color on just the highlights. This three-tone method gives you a smooth, blended look, without the hassle of wet blending. It takes a little practice, but it's easier than it sounds. Again, for 1/72 figures, you'll only want to use this method for large areas, but on 28mm you use it a lot more. 
The figure in the first photo below is an example of the Foundry technique. I painted this guy's cape red, washed it with a dark red glaze to darken the color, then painted the highlights in a reddish-pink. This is actually a two-layer job, not three, but that's because I wanted the highlights to be pronounced so you could see them from a distance.

The lot of 'em

World War III: Armageddon

Okay, here's my pretty much finished WWIII wargame rules. I say pretty much finished because, as any rule-writer knows, there's always room for improvement, and I'll probably make some modifications at some point. But for now, they're pretty playable rules. Be warned, however; this game is conducive to heavy casualties. No protracted slugfests here; whole units can be wiped out with a few unlucky rolls. The basic combat system is easy enough: each figure rolls 2D6 against his Accuracy to see if he scores a hit; then roll 1D6 to determine the extent of the damage. Activation tests, reaction tests and morale tests are also used. No revolutionary game mechanics.
I've included pdfs for the core rules, reference sheet, and two sample army help cards at the bottom of this page. Feel free to download (and adapt, if you want) all or any of the documents.The army help cards are meant as examples of the type of army lists you can create; you'll probably want to create your own, unless you happen to have modern Russians and British available.
This game is supposed to be played using scenarios with specific objectives and troop placement. Make up your own (its easier than you might think) or look in some other wargame rules for scenario ideas.
Please note that I have revised and updated these rules several times, so if there is a slight discrepancy or mistake in the rules, forgive me.
Here are some pictures from a test game.

WWIII: Armageddon Core Rules

Cover

Reference Sheet

Russian Army Card

British Army Card

Italeri 11th Century Crusaders

Got these figures for Lion Rampant, the rulebook for which I just received for my birthday. I did a few test games of Lion
Rampant using unpainted figures, and it's really fun. Fast paced and easy to learn. Me and my opponent were playing smoothly and fluidly, without too many checks to the rulebook, in the first game. Intuitive game mechanics and it doesn't take itself to seriously. Highly recommended. I'll have to get some more of those Osprey Publishing wargame rulebooks.
The figures are not great - a lot of the figures are on the skinny side, as is common with Italeri sets - and some of the poses are unnatural and stiff. But the mounted figures make up with it with their fluid knightly grace. They'll look great, all painted up in bright heraldic colors and ready for battle.

Finished Panzer IV Tiger I

So, here it is in all its painted glory. This was only the second tank I've ever built, so I was pretty happy with the way it came out. There were certain things about the model that were really irritating, however. When I used a heated metal screwdriver to fuse the first track together, it worked fine, but when I tried the second track, one of the little holes for the peg broke open, and it ended up looking like a mess.
Also, the decals didn't work well at all - even though I used Testors decal set, one of the crosses on the side of the hull disintegrated and fell God knows where, so I had to paint the cross on. Still, doesn't look too bad. The decals on the side of the turret were also a pain in the butt, they didn't stick well at all to the bumpy and rounded surface.

HaT Gallic Chariot Element

Here's my latest addition to my Gallic DBA army. Just two more of these babies to go - one more regular light chariot, then a LCh(Gen) as an alternative to the 4Wb(Gen).
 I'm pretty pleased with this set from HaT; the figures are relativley well sculpted, the horses are nice, and the chariot fits together well. My one problem was with the softness of the plastic. And you get 3 chariots for 5 bucks - can't beat the price. Plus each chariot comes with two options for the guy in back.

All 8 Gallic Warbands

I have finally finished all eight elements of Gallic warband! My psiloi is also in the bag, so now I just have three chariots and a general element to paint. Then on to the Marian Romans.

Hasegawa Pz.Kpfw VI Tiger I Ausf. E Late Model

I bought this tank a little while ago to go with my recently finished Esci US Paratroopers. I'm thinking about the possibility of - dare I say it - starting a new wargame. This is probably a terrible idea, since I already have a handful of unfinished wargame projects sitting around, but I like the idea of a skirmish-style WW2 wargame set in Normandy after the invasions.
I learned after I got the kit that the rough zimmerit coating (applied to late war German tanks to prevent magnetic grenades from sticking to the hull) was not modelled in the plastic of the tank; in other words, I had to apply it myself.
I looked up methods of doing this on modelling forums and such, and was inundated with a wealth of accumulated knowledge on the subject. Wow. It's amazing how much people have to say about zimmerit coating.  Anyway, one method rose above the rest, and it works very well.
Apply a thin coat of regular modelling glue (I use Testors) over the surface area to be treated. (The surfaces to be coated with zimmerit are the sides of the turret, the front of the turret, the sides of the hull, and the front and back). Wait for the glue to dry, about 30 minutes. Wait too little, and the glue will be too wet and sticky. Too long, and you won't be able to make an impression in it.
Once the glue has dried for about 30 minutes, take a small screwdriver and make horizontal marks in the surface of the paint, forming columns running vertically down the vehicle.As you can imagine, this takes a really long time.
Unfortunately for me, the Tamiya Dark Yellow paint I ordered for the dunkelgelb camouflage (literally 'dark yellow' in German) will not arrive for several weeks, so even after I finish the tedious task of applying the zimmerit, I won't be able to finish the model for a while.

You can see my attempts at zimmerit on the side of the tank

The size of the screw driver I use in comparison to the model